Not a dyno report, but some info on a basic EFI setup that many people talk about. Resetting the Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS ) base value has been talked about on a few of the BMW Internet pages I have seen. This is simply to ensure that the zero setting of the TPS corresponds with the zero setting of the throttle valve. I have now included a link to the IBMWR pages where the "Zero = Zero" procedure is well laid out.


Many people contact me about this asking all sorts of questions. My comments generally are as follows.

  • If you don’t understand part of the procedure, don’t start it.
  • If you don’t understand the concept of the procedure, don’t start it.
  • Understand this is not a performance modification, just correctly setting the TPS/throttle blade relationship.
  • If you don’t have access to a gas analyser, you won’t be able to finish the procedure on R850/1100 models ( except the S ) properly. This will most likely effect the result.
  • For the R1100S/1150 models, I would set the idle stop setting at 350mV.
  • It is, of course, more accurate if you have a BMW Moditec.

What this does with the R850/1100 models ( except the S ), in my experience, is reduce the TPS output voltage for any given throttle angle. This makes the bike run leaner by whatever percentage the TPS was lowered by. Reports of the effect of this have varied from extraordinary to mild. As a general rule, a slightly leaner engine will be more responsive, which is the most common comment. There is no danger of any damage to the engine, however, as we are only talking small amounts.

For the R1100S/1150 models, I have found the TPS base setting is often "negative". By this I mean that, at the closed throttle blade position, the TPS setting was wound back past the "zero " figure. This zero figure is usually 0.003 V. Therefore, this procedure will make the bikes run a little richer. It also helps with surging issues. Many customers tell me about moving the TPS and the effect it has, without understanding why it seems to me. This procedure is simply an accurate and repeatable way of doing this. It also keeps the correct idle switch setting. Be aware, however, this is not a recognised "warranty job", so please don’t hassle. It takes around _ of an hour, and is charged accordingly.

We have done quite a few 1100S/1150 bikes with great results, including a VANDERLINDE equipped S. I do any bike that will be used for chip development by FIM as a matter of course.

I would also recommend that any bike being fitted with an FIM chip have this procedure done, simply to get the best from the chip. Just finishes off the combination as it was tested and, most importantly, intended to be used.

Remember, it is simply a set up procedure for correct tuning. For some other brands we deal with ( Ducati and MV ), it is a charged part of the first service.

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